When we’re working with a client on an important speech, one of the last questions that always comes up at the end of day together is “what should I wear?” It’s a ridiculously important question, because your costume is a big part of your visual impact as a speaker, and your visual impact is a big part of how you come across.

Bottom line? This may surprise you: you don’t want anyone to notice it. Consciously, that is. It’s like the stage set for a play – if the audience starts to pay attention to that, it means the show is in trouble. Instead, you want your audience to pay attention to the speech.

OK, so the goal is to look unobtrusively great. How do you achieve that happy state?

With a lot of careful preparation. Here’s what you need to think about.

First, do your homework.

Don’t be shy about asking the meeting planner directly and specifically what the dress code is. Descriptions – ‘business casual’, for example – can be vague and vary depending on culture. Ask your contact to give you a specific example of what the men and women will be wearing. If you are invited to a pre-event dinner or other activity, ask about that too. For large events, there is usually a dressing room and make up artist who will help you get ready for strong lights and cameras.

If you’re traveling to the event, this is not a time to pack light. Take several options, so that you can adjust at the last minute if you learn something late in the game. And if you possibly can, take at least one outfit in your carry-on luggage.

I once flew to San Diego to speak, and my luggage went to… somewhere else. I had to make an emergency run to Dillon’s and purchase suitable clothing. No time for alterations – I had to take what I could get. That’s how I learned not to take a chance on the airline deciding that your luggage is particularly important.

Always look better than they do.

There’s a great line in the Steve Martin movie, Leap of Faith, when the actor is about to go on stage as an itinerant preacher. He turns to Debra Winger and says, “Always look better than they do, kid.” You always want to look at least as good as the audience, and almost always one step better. That shows respect and gives you authority. So if the audience is biz casual, then put on a sport coat, but forego the tie. For women, dress up the biz casual look with a touch of glam like a contrasting blouse.

Prepare your outfit.

So you want to be wearing clothes that are appropriate for the occasion – and highlight you as an authority at that occasion. But there’s more. And this is really important: wear something that you feel like a million dollars in. Make sure your clothes are well tailored and fit you well. Not too big, not too tight. This is one suit or dress that you should splurge on.

Get a second opinion. Some people have had great success seeking the advice of an image consultant. Or put yourself in the hands of a pro in a reputable store. Ask someone that will give you an honest opinion.

If you sweat, pick, light fabrics that don’t stain. Keep your jacket on or use extra antiperspirant.

Color and patterns are important. Find out what the room set up is likely to be like and pick a color that stands out from the background. Many speakers go with the default option, which is dark – even black – because they’ve been told that it’s slimming or dignified. Problem is that often stage set backgrounds are dark or black, meaning you’ll disappear into them when you’re on stage. If you are going to be recorded or on IMEG avoid stripes or checks as these will cause problems on screen.

Try out your clothes in a dress rehearsal.

Practice the heart posture in your outfit. (See my blog and video on why posture is so important.) Can you stand tall and open your arms out wide and over your head without popping your buttons or exposing your midriff? You’ve got to be able to move comfortably and freely in your outfit, or else you will telegraph that you feel straight-jacketed and your audience will read ‘nervous and uncomfortable’.

Test and break in your shoes. We once had to deal with a female exec’s sling-back high heels. They were new and perfectly matched to her outfit, but proved a challenge when the staircase to the stage was unexpectedly steep. We were resourceful and found some double-sided sticky tape to avoid potential disaster – but we were all nervous about her big entrance. That was pressure no one needed.

I once walked off the stage and the first question an audience member asked me was ‘where did you get those shoes?’ I hope he remembered the talk as clearly as my shoes! I have a pair of Pikolinos (a Spanish-made shoe) that are light and comfortable and perfect for walking the stage. They’re also very packable – an important consideration for traveling speakers.

Keep your accessories classy and subtle. Avoid anything that’s too distracting or likely to interfere with the microphone. That means, for the women, avoiding clanky or big jewelry, even if it’s your favorite. You don’t want anything to distract from you. The classic look, translated for the particular culture and event, is always best.

Travel to the event early.

Most speakers have to travel to the event location, and it’s often by air. Make a point of arriving the night before, so that you’re not panicking yourself and others because of flight delays morning of. And – it’s worth repeating – take at least one outfit in your carry-on luggage. Get an early night, eat sensibly and don’t drink alcohol. Take advantage of the spa facilities and book yourself a massage BEFORE your speech (not after).

Fix your hair so that you are not self-conscious or fiddling with it. We’ve had both men and women who’ve been guilty of ‘grooming’ because their hair got unruly. When you groom during a speech, you send an unconscious flirtation signal to the audience, and that’s not good for your authority.

Now that you’re in the green room.

Remove your lanyard if you are wearing an event badge, because those often reflect stage lights awkwardly. Check your face, teeth, makeup, and hair before you go on, so that you’re confident and you don’t have to do any checking on stage. A speech shouldn’t be about you and your personal grooming – it should be about your audience.

Check your outfit to make sure everything that should be tucked in, is. And check your outfit on stage beforehand in the lights to make sure nothing is see-through. If you’ve been fitted with a lapel microphone, make sure you’re put back together after that.

You’re on!

Finally, before you hit the stage, put all that preparation behind you. The whole point is to look and feel great – and not have to think about that so that you can concentrate on your speech and the audience in front of you.

Get out of your head and into your body, by standing up, and flexing each muscle group gently, and then relaxing, from your feet up through your legs to your torso and finally to your head and shoulders. In particular, a lot of tension accumulates in the face, with its more than 200 muscles. If you can do so without disturbing your makeup, give yourself a very gentle facial massage. If you’ve got makeup on, screw up your face and relax it.

Now, breathe deeply and slowly by expanding your abdomen, taking the air in, tensing the stomach muscles, and forcing the air out your mouth using your abdominals. This exercise will begin a relaxation response, which will help you deal with the inevitable adrenaline.

Think of a strong emotion you can begin with – one that’s appropriate to your message. Experience that emotion by remembering a time when you felt it – and activate that memory by remembering what the occasion felt like, looked like, smelled like, tasted like, and sounded like.

Then, get your first line in your head, smile, and take the stage!